What do I need to know to build my first WILDSAU?
Hello Bikefriend,
congratulations on choosing a Wildsau frame from ALUTECH.
In order for you to enjoy your purchase for an extended period of time we
kindly ask you to read and bear in mind the following!
Bottom bracket and headset are to be set in the frame
using e.g. blue Loctite or an equivalent.
When choosing a headset for your frame you have to use one where the cups
have a minimum insert length of 25mm e.g. Zonnenschein, Nicolai or Chris King
Steelset, else the warranty is void.
If you change your suspension setup by switching your shock
to an other mount in order to adjust travel or head angle to your riding style
please make sure the shock works freely within the new mounting position.
Therefore remove the spring, remount the shock and compress the rear triangle
while observing the shock and especially the piggyback reservoir - no part
of the shock must in any position collide with the frame.
The new standard shock for Wildsau Hardride Manitou Swinger SPV offers only
limited possibilities of setting it up at the lower mounts.
The reservoir of this shock must face rearward, if it faces to the front MAKE
SURE it runs freely at the entire range of travel!
When removing the spring on your MANITOU shock, be sure not to remove the
blue rebound dial as is stated in the manual. It is better to completely close
the rebound dial to get the space you need to remove the spring!
The rebound dial should also face rearward when the shock is installed with
the reservoir facing top.
Furthermore make sure that neither the rear triangle nor the rear wheel collide with the main frame.
The 2 shock mounts on the swingarm will change the
ratio of the rear triangle from 1: 3.44 to 1: 3.66 thereby changing the length
of the frames rear travel.
If you shift your shock by one mount at the main frame you
will change your head angle by about 1° depending on the installed shock
and suspension fork.
When untightening the swingarm's central bolt, first loosen the locknut and then unscrew the bolt.
When you have finished tuning your setup
on the rear triangle be sure to tighten all bolts. Don't grease the threads
- only apply a drop of Loctite, otherwise the bolts might loosen and damage
your frame.
Note that on the drivetrain side of the frame there is an additional locknut
which has to be loosened prior to removing the bolt.
When your frame has adjustable dropouts, be sure to check that your rear wheel
runs centered in the frame.
All bolts should be tightened to about 8–10 Nm.
Front derailleur: Top Pull, Top Swing.
Derailleur hanger and chain length: Please be sure to give your chain the slack it needs. In order to determine the correct chain length, dismount the shock and check at maximum back wheel elevation if the chain runs through the rear derailleur with enough slack on the largest chainring/sporcket combination. Allways check this in the long wheelbase! If your chain is too short you risk to bend or break your rear derailleur or the hanger when landing hard an the back wheel bottoms out.
Use only a quickrelease from ALUTECH or Shimano. These can be firmly tightened and thereby add even more strenght to the very stiff frame construction.
Older frame models came partly with an adapter sleeve for the seatpost. The seatpost diameter is then 27,2mm. Make sure that the sleeve inserts at least down to the gusset connecting seat- and toptube or deeper.
When installing the rear brakehose and cablehousing route them in such ways that they go from the inside of the swingarm to the outside at the 2nd aperture.
Remove the dustcap of the main pivot bearing on all models prior to 2003 at least twice a year and grease.
The warranty period for failure for our frames is 5 years and only valid for the original owner. After this period we will rapair any defects at reasonable charges. Please also note our crash replacement policy.